In 1923, Jacques Heim took over the family business and started producing a line of couture that used original fabrics, most notably, those of Sonia Delauney. In 1930 the official Haute Couture label, Jacques Heim, was born, Jacques remained at the helm of his business until his death in 1967. The label was shuttered by 1969. This dress was sold to my client many years ago from the famed couture vintage seller Didier Ludot and was dated by him to that final year of Heim's presence at the label. I have included a photo provided to me by the owner.
I love the classic but still mod cut of this dress that reflects what was happening in fashion during this time period. It is cut to skim over your curves of the bodice and then the cut out under that sits higher up under the bust. The waist nips in and the skirt is cut so that it flares out as it reaches the hem. The base of the dress is a fine black velvet with a dense pile so it almost seems to absorb the light. This is in perfect contrast to the transparent panel set around the waist and that details each cuff. These panels are a fine black silk chiffon that is intricately hand detailed with glossy black bead work and those amazing and huge glossy acrylic pieces you see, It is simplicity mixed with a masterful seaming and extraordinary detailing. His pieces are very rare from this rime period and this is a real treat to have in the shop. Excellent condition with a note on the bead work below
Fully lined in a fine black silk and closes with a back painted metal zipper. Hand finished throughout. All of the bead work and those tremendous glossy, thin acrylic pieces are hand set. All but two of the large plastic cut outs have breaks. All are fully intact with no pieces missing but they have cracked over the years. It is for this fact that I have priced it lower but I would like to emphasize that it is perfectly wearable and there are no huge gaps or missing pieces. The cracks are so fine that when on everything sits really well still. I have included a couple of closer shots of the breaks after the label photo.
Sleeves: 21"
Shoulders: 15'
Bust: 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 14" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 11.5" from shoulder to top seam of transparent band
Transparent band: 4.25"
Skirt: 17.25" from bottom seam of transparent band to hem
Modern Sizing Equivalent: SML-MED
Item# DD3269
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival.